Guidebook & Trek Diary

Kokoda: A Historical Guidebook and Trek Diary by Charlie Lynn

Charlie Lynn has researched and compiled a comprehensive historical guidebook to provide you with an understanding of the history of the Kokoda Trail. The guidebook also contains a personal diary section for you to record your experiences along the way. An example of the detail is contained in the following extracts:

'The Golden Staircase

'The track continues along a relatively easy route for about 45 minutes before reaching the base of Imita Ridge and the area known as the 'Golden Staircase'. Here the diggers faced an upward climb of almost a kilometre in less than four kilometres. More than three thousand steps were cut into the side of the ridge by the army engineers. W.B Russell of the 2/14th Battalion:

The golden stairs consisted of steps varying from ten to eighteen inches in height. The front edge of the step was a small log held by stakes. Behind the log was a puddle of mud and water. Some of the stakes had worked loose, leaving the logs slightly tilted. Anyone who stood on one of these skidded and fell with a whack in the mud, probably banging his head against a tree or being hit on the head with his own rifle. Those who had no sticks soon acquired them, not only to prevent falls, but allow the arms to help the legs, especially with the higher steps. After the first half dozen steps, it became a matter of sheer determination forcing the body to achieve the impossible. It was probably the weight more than the climb, though the climb would have been enough to tire even a lightly loaded man. The rear companies, where the going is always hardest, took twelve hours to complete nine miles (about 14 kilometers).

'Today's track no longer follows the original route of the infamous 'Golden Staircase' but now proceeds up a more gentle spur to the east through Imita Gap.

'On the northern side of Imita Gap the track descends to Ua Ule Creek (formerly know as Munikahila Creek) where it meanders back and forth across the creek for about half-an-hour before it reaches a new guesthouse recently built for trekkers by landowners from Ower's Corner.

'A further half-hour along the track leads to a creek junction at the base of Ioribaiwa Ridge. A fairly steep climb follows for a bit over an hour to the top of the ridge. This is as far as the Japanese advanced in their quest to capture Port Moresby.

'The one hour climb to the top of Ioribaiwa Ridge is quite steep without much relief. Glimpses back across Imita Ridge on the way up give the trekker a good feel for the awesome nature of the terrain. Weapon pits can still be found on the southern slopes. A sharp 30 minute descent leads down to Ofi Creek.

'The diggers then faced a gruelling three hour climb over the Maguli Range before reaching Mogolonumu (the top of the ridge). The Maguli had its own staircase 'Jap's Ladder' of close to 3,000 steps. These steps would have been needed for the steep climb out of Ofi Creek - something that takes almost an hour for today's trekkers. An inspection of the area at the top of 'Jap's Ladder' reveals a series of weapon pits connected by crawl trenches - a haunting reminder of the desperate battles in this area.

'The next two hours provides some relief as glimpses of the top of the ridge turn out to be false peaks. Despite the frustration of the climb trekkers are rewarded with spectacular views across the ranges to the East and South from these peaks.

'The new village of Nauro (formerly known as Wamai) has been established on a spur at 1000 metres. It was previously located on the flat swampland in the valley to the North. The Nauro airfield is located in this valley. The new village boasts a well-constructed guesthouse and extensive garden areas. A VHF radio is located in the village.

Nauro Village

'Today, the population of the new village is approximately 80. The Clan Leader and chief of the village is Samuel Dabave.

'The old village of Nauro also has a population of about 80 whilst the neighbouring villages of Madlogo has about 100 and Ebologo has about 60.

Brown River

The new track descends down a spur to the NNW to the swamp-plains adjacent to the Brown River

On 24 August, while fording the new river, “Peter Brown, an original ‘Colonist’ man, heedless of advice, tried to swim the river” … “Alas”, as one of his comrades reported, “he went to the long home from which the explorer can never return. Two days later we found his body floating in the water. In sadness and sorrow we buried him on the bank of that lonely stream which will forever bear his name."

The crossing across this river still needs to be treated with caution if heavy rain has been falling in the catchment area. The crossing looks innocent enough but there is a very powerful current adjacent to the bank.

Ladavi Saddle

After about three hours along the edge of the swamp is a steep climb for about an hour up through the Ladavi Saddle. A lookout near the top provides extensive views back to Nauro village and across the ranges further to the South. On the crest of the Ladavi Saddle, is a sweeping view of Menari village below and onto Brigade Hill to the North.

The descent to Emuni River takes a bit over half-an-hour then it is a 10 minute walk into the village.

Menari Village

The village of Menari has a population of about 250. The village has a medical aid centre, a VHF radio, water-points and an airfield. The village is home to the Wamai, Golebi and Uluve clans. The clan leaders are Mr John Dagu (Wamai), Mr Soli Io (Golebi) and Mr Dove Ilube (Uluve). The Luluai of the village is Mr Faole – a former village constable and fuzzy wuzzy angel.

The local teacher in Menari is Mr Alex Wagele and the local village school has two grades (primary grades 2 and 3).

The local nurse is Mr Agi Bobo – unfortunately the medical centre has no medical supplies and the little they get from time to time is paid for by Mr Bobo from his own pocket money.

Menari is significant because it is here that Lieutenant Colonel Ralph Honner, who took command of the 39th Battalion just prior to the battle for Isurava, held his first battalion parade. Damien Parer captured the parade on film and it is featured on the front cover of Peter Brune’s book ‘Those Ragged Bloody Heroes’.

The track out of the village follows the airfield for about three-quarters of its length then leads through a garden area and down onto Vabuyavi River. There is a log bridge onto a large boulder in the centre of the river and another one leading to the other side. Trekkers need to exercise caution when crossing it and should use their guides to assist.

From here the diggers faced another two hour grind to the top of Brigade Hill. About an hour and a half up from the Vabuyavi River is Tambunu – a track junction and lookout.

Brigade Hill

A further half hour to the top of Brigade Hill is a cleared area. This was the scene of the biggest battle of the Kokoda campaign where a force of 6,000 Japanese soldiers from the 144th South Seas Island Regiment under General T Horrii attacked a defending force of 1,000 soldiers from the Australian 21st Brigade under the command of Brigadier Arnold Potts on 6 September 1942. The Japanese refer to it as the battle for the Owen Stanley Range – the Australians call it the battle for Brigade Hill. The term Brigade Hill, Mission Ridge and Butcher’s Ridge were to be emblazoned on the battle honours of the Australian battalions (2/14th, 2/16th and 2/27th) who fought there.

Two huts have recently been erected on the top of Brigade Hill. One of these was built by Mr Gaksy Laimo Siosi who is Clan Leader of the Wese Clan.

On the forward slopes of Brigade Hill is Mission Ridge which overlooks Efogi village and provides extensive views to Bodinumu village to the North and Kagi village in the distance to the North East. This was the scene of bitter fighting between the Australian 2/27th Battalion defending the ridge and the overwhelming Japanese force which attacked them. Many of the diggers refer to it as ‘Butcher’s Ridge’ because of the carnage as a result of the battle.

On the forward slopes of Brigade Hill is Mission Ridge which overlooks Efogi village and provides extensive views to Bodinumu village to the North and Kagi village in the distance to the North East. This was the scene of bitter fighting between the Australian 2/27th Battalion defending the ridge and the overwhelming Japanese force which attacked them. Many of the diggers refer to it as 'Butcher's Ridge' because of the carnage as a result of the battle.

A steep descent follows to Elome Creek at the base of Efogi. A 10 minute climb leads to the edge of the Efogi airstrip and the entrance to the village.

Efogi Village

Efogi is the largest village along the trail with a population of approximately 350. It comprises people from three different clans. The head of the village is Mr Omi Aubi.

The village has a VHF radio, an airfield and guesthouse facilities. There is also a small village museum in the village which has a range of Australian and Japanese weapons, grenades, ammunition, helmets and pieces of military equipment. Trekkers should pay the owner of the museum a small fee of K5 to look at it.

The track leading out of the village descends to the Kavai River before a sharp 20 minute climb to Efogi 2, or Launumu village. At the entrance to this village you can see the views the Japanese soldiers had of the Australian defensive positions on Mission Ridge as they crossed their start line on the evening of 5 September 1942. To the rear is the 'forming up place' where the Japanese would have formed up and completed their final battle procedures before crossing the start line for their attack on Brigade Hill.

Today there is a small Japanese monument in the centre of the village. It was erected by Corporal Nishimura, one of the few Japanese survivors who returned to the area 37 years after the war to recover the bodies of his comrades and release their spirits...