The Kokoda Track is one of the world's greatest
treks, linking the southern and northern coast of Papua
New Guinea. It is 96km long and passes through rugged
mountainous country of rainforest, jungles of fern,
thick orchids full of birds and clean mountain streams
tumbling into steep valleys.
Former army major Charlie Lynn leads expeditions
along the track. He established Adventure Kokoda in
1991, and to date has led an average of seven or eight
walks a year. Walkers are always met with warm smiles
and villagers enjoy sharing fruit and vegetables.
July 21, 1942, saw the start of one of the bloodiest
campaigns of World War II when Japanese troops landed on
New Guinea's north coast with the intention of marching
over the Owen Stanley Range and capturing Port Moresby.
Had they succeeded, Australia would have been under dire
threat and the successful mission to prevent that was
arguably our most significant involvement in the war.
The 21st Brigade, commandeered by Brigadier Potts,
was rushed to New Guinea within days. Just 1500 men were
gathered to protect their country against the advancing
Japanese Imperial Army, which was quickly building to
more than 10,000 strong. Australia was more vulnerable
than it had ever been. More Australians died in the
seven months of fighting in Papua than in any other
campaign.
The average age of the Australians was just
18-and-a-half — and many of those lie buried at the
Bomana War Cemetery outside Port Moresby.
On January 23, 1942, the Japanese landed at Kavieng
and Rabaul and quickly overcame Australian defenders. On
March 8, they firmly established themselves at Lae and
Salamaua.
May 5-8 saw the Battle of the Coral Sea which averted
a Japanese sea-borne invasion of Port Moresby. The
Japanese, who were regularly bombing Port Moresby with
more than 20 bombers with fighter escort, decided on an
overland attack across the Owen Stanley Range.
In 1942 a seldom-used track wove from the small
village of Buna on the north coast of Papua, over the
Owen Stanley Range and on to Port Moresby. It was fairly
easy going up the slopes through Gorari and Oivi to the
village of Kokoda, standing on a small plateau just 400
metres above sea level, flanked by the enormous
mountains.
It continued over steep ridges, through deep valleys
to Deniki, Isurava, Kagi, Ioribaiwa, Ilolo and, at
Owers' Corner, linked with a motor road from the
plantations in the hills above Port Moresby to the
coastal plains.
Between Kokoda and Ilolo, the track's gradients were
so steep it was almost impossible for burdened men to
climb even a few hundred metres. Much of the track was
through dense rainforest making a narrow passage through
thick bush. Higher up, terrain was slippery moss and
stunted trees which were often shrouded in mist.
While no one could comprehend the hardships the young
soldiers faced, for many people, walking in their
footsteps is the most emotional and rewarding
experience.
Getaway's David Reyne and a crew joined
Charlie Lynn on one his expeditions. Unlike the men
before them, the crew had three months to prepare
physically and mentally for the Kokoda, but were still
not prepared for the heat, mud, sweat and extreme
physical exertion that faced them. Their admiration and
respect for the brave heroes in whose footsteps they
followed was palpable.
The 9.5-hour walk from Kokoda began as a flat amble
south into the hills. It was a gruelling experience and
showers and clean clothing at day's end were most
welcome. It was also time to reflect upon the men of the
39th battalion, led by Lt Col Ralph Honner.
The trek includes a visit to Kovello for a
traditional "fuzzy-wuzzy angel sing-sing" welcome before
trekking to the Hoi Village campsite.
Next the climb over the awesome Owen Stanley Range
begins, going through abandoned villages to Deniki and
on to Isurava village. The solemn and magnificent
Isurava memorial was opened on the 60th anniversary of
the battle by Australian prime minister John Howard and
his Papua New Guinea counterpart Sir Michael Somare.
At the Insuava battle site you will see weapon pits
and discarded armaments, before descending to Back Creek
and Alola Village where you are rewarded by a cooling
waterfall dip. The waterfall is on the eastern side of
the range which was defended by the 53rd Militia
Battalion.
You arrive at Abuari for afternoon — the traditional
village was a key defensive area during the campaign.
You then return to Alola Village campsite via Eora
Creek.
Templeton's Crossing was the scene of savage fighting
during the withdrawal. As you continue up the spur you
will see weapon pits and one of the Japanese defensive
positions.
The climb to Kokoda Gap gives views back down the
Yodda Valley beyond the Kokoda plateau. The climb
continues to Mt Bellamy, the highest point of the track.
From there are views of the open plains of Myola. You
then enter the enchanted Moss Forest and descend to 1900
Crossing, following the original wartime track to the
campsite at Lake Myola.
It is easy to imagine low-flying Dakotas dropping
supplies of food and ammunition and recovery parties
searching for the critical drops.
So many things became evident during the gruelling
days in Papua New Guinea on the infamous Kokoda Track —
but one that stood out in the minds of our crew was that
victory would have not prevailed had it not be for the
extraordinary Papuans, who became staunch allies in
Australia's greatest hour of need. The debt of gratitude
is immense.
Some fought independently because they had been
mistreated by the Japanese. Many were murdered by them,
resulting in a high degree of loathing of the invaders.
Some fought in organised units. Mostly, though, they
were bearers, carrying food, ammunition and the wounded.
Their assistance was officially recognised with a medal
being struck by the Australian government as a token of
thanks for these "fuzzy wuzzy angels".
